The weather did indeed break. It’s not very rainy but it’s much, much colder. I’m in a jumper today.
After general sightseeing yesterday, today is a museum day. And also a washing day, because there’s a communal washing machine in the basement here. I hope the drier is free later so I don’t have to pack everything damp. I even did a bit of telephone interpreting in the morning, to help out a colleague, and then had to write out a job sheet in my notebook because obviously I didn’t bring any. I wonder what my clients in Polmont would have thought if they knew I was speaking to them from Austria.
I went to the Kunsthistorisches Muzeum first (the art history museum). There were two things I wanted to see there: the contents of the Kunstkamera (art collection) of Rudolf II, which were nicked from Prague during the 30 Years War, and the arms of Skanderbeg, the medieval Albanian hero.
The stolen treasures were easy to find, as they made up most of one entire collection. Say what you like about Rudolf being a weak and credulous king, he had wonderful taste in shiny things. Buckle in for many pictures in ones or twos, because many of them require explanations.
As you can see, the Kunstkamera was amazing. It’s a big museum so I then asked where the arms of Skanderbeg were – and they are actually held in a different museum. I decided to have a wee wander around another section of the Art History Museum before leaving, but that was a mistake. The next one was Egypt – all mummies and hieroglyphs, which leave me cold, and it was crowded, and I couldn’t find my way out. I walked much too fast past the remains of statues muttering “Keep the heid, Karen”, until I found a staff member who could show me the way out.
After that I really needed a break so I went to the Prückel Café. It’s a fancy art deco type cafe where, according to the audio guide, locals outnumber tourists. Given that it’s featured on a tourist audio guide, that’s hard to believe, but it’s certainly popular. As I don’t have a reservation I get a not-too-great seat right next to the door. But soon I have coffee and sachertorte in front of me, and I’m feeling much better.
Thus fortified, I was ready to take on the second museum. As I walked in, there was a band playing music and it was all laid out as if for a conference dinner. I thought I’d taken a wrong turn but no, the museum was upstairs from all this.
I asked immediately for the arms of Skanderbeg – and here they are!
After that I browsed through the rest of the armoury for a while. Military history isn’t really my thing, so I found the suits of armour amusing rather than amazing – as those following me on WhatsApp could tell, because I sent lots of silly photos. Even so, there was the odd thing worth putting in a blog post.
The musical section of the museum was much more interesting. They have original instruments and reproductions, and some of the reproductions you are allowed to play! They had lots of extinct instruments, some of which I had never even heard of.
Then I tried to find my way out – and again, couldn’t. But this time I had a couple of Canadian ladies with me who were in the same situation, so I didn’t feel so inept. We eventually found a staff member. I launched into my best German: “Excuse me, do you know how one finds the-” but before I could get to the key word, one of the Canadian ladies said “Ausgang” (exit), which, to be fair, was just as effective.
I struggled to get back to my tram because of all the roadworks, and, tired and hungry, decided to have dinner on the way rather than going back to the flat and then out again.
There was a place with 5-star reviews on the tram route called Johan’s Küche, so I tried it. It’s very unusual, with a set menu (no options other than with/without meat) and a self-service bar. You even collect your own food and clear your own plates, like in a canteen. But the food was good, the price was very reasonable and the chef (presumably called Johan) was fun.
Now I’m back in the apartment waiting for my clothes to finish in the dryer and watching Before Sunrise. I wonder why I’ve never watched it before, as it’s about interrailing.
This post is getting unweildy so I’m going to leave it there. See you tomorrow for our trip to Bratislava!
K C Murdarasi 
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